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Part Two:From Las Vegas to London to the British Isles

Sean Hornbeck
Monday, January 12, 2026

From Las Vegas to London to the British Isles

A Virgin Voyages Journey Through History, Culture & Connection

Friday, August 15 – The Long Way to London

Our journey began with a marathon travel day: Las VegasChicago O’HareIstanbul London Heathrow. In Istanbul, Hayden Sutherland and Kristina Madewell joined Scott and me, expanding our group as we crossed continents.

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Upon arrival at London Heathrow, a private car service transported us into the city to The Clermont Hotel at Victoria Station. Once checked in, we were joined by Lance Cunningham and Robert and Maria Chubbuck.

After such a long travel day, the hotel welcomed us with a thoughtful touch—a cupcake in each room with a thank-you note for traveling with them—a small gesture that made a big impression.  They also noted birthday and anniversary celebrations!

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Saturday, August 16 – Murder, Mystery & the British Countryside

The next morning everyone was welcome to an amazing breakfast at the hotel.  It was literally a feast!  Eggs cooked to order, pancakes, sausages, bacon, traditional english breakfast items and more!  Then, it was time for our first activity!

One of the greatest perks of staying at The Clermont Hotel is its location—walk out the back door and you’re already inside Victoria Station.

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That morning, we boarded the iconic Belmond Pullman Train for a five-hour murder mystery journey through the British countryside. Even better, our group had a private train car, and champagne flowed freely throughout the experience.

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With Michelin-star cuisine, immersive storytelling, impeccable service, and sweeping countryside views, this felt timeless and uniquely British—one of the true highlights of the entire trip.

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Afterward, a private transfer took us to Portsmouth, where we checked into the Marriott Portsmouth and enjoyed dinner at the hotel.

Sunday, August 17 – Embarkation Day & The Group Is Complete

A car service took us to Virgin Voyages’ Portsmouth terminal. Luggage drop was smooth, though embarkation clearly reflected Virgin’s tiered structure, with RockStars and Mega RockStars very clearly prioritized. Right behind them were deep blue benefits and Virtuoso.

Our final group members—Brandon Dressen and Thomas Wetherington—joined us, after several days exploring London. With everyone finally together, the journey truly began.

After some confusion surrounding the UK ETA requirement, we boarded, enjoyed the Sail Away, had dinner at Extra Virgin, unpacked, and attended the PJ Party, which was relocated to The Manor.

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An early dining note: Virgin promotes its food heavily, but execution didn’t always match expectations. Scott requested sea bass with no skin and received it with skin—twice. Also gone on the Scarlet Lady was the once-popular black squid pasta.

Monday, August 18 – Sea Day… Sort Of

Although scheduled as a sea day, we arrived in Amsterdam late—around 6:30 PM instead of 5:30 PM. Once ashore, we headed to The Grand Hotel Amsterdam, a Sofitel property, where our Virtuoso benefits truly shined with apartment-style upgrades.

That evening, we opted for a night canal cruise with Friendship Canal Tours, cocktails included. Seeing Amsterdam illuminated after dark—bridges glowing and reflections dancing across the canals—was absolutely magical.

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Afterward, the group split up. Some of us enjoyed dinner at Cannibale Royale, while others chose to shop and explore independently.

Tuesday, August 19 – Amsterdam, History & Shifting Tones

We began the morning back at The Grand Hotel Amsterdam, where breakfast was included for our entire group. The spread was impressive—beautifully presented, varied, and generous enough that it encouraged lingering and conversation rather than rushing off.

Several of us then went on a guided history tour of the hotel, which proved well worth it. The building itself has lived many lives over the centuries, serving as Amsterdam’s City Hall, a naval headquarters, and even a royal residence. Walking through its halls with that context added real depth to our stay and made the Virtuoso upgrade experience feel even more meaningful.

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Back onboard, frustrations returned as the new Virgin Voyages app repeatedly failed, continuously logging users out. While Opa Hour on the dock was enjoyable and social, the ongoing tech issues were hard to ignore and continued to impact the onboard experience.

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That evening, we stopped to listen to piano music from Harrison Treble, but the performance was interesting—people were actively leaving. Virgin Voyages has historically set a high bar for entertainment, and this felt like a noticeable shift toward programming designed to appeal to a much older demographic, rather than the vibrant, high-quality performances many repeat sailors have come to expect.

Dinner that night was at Lucky Lotus by Razzle Dazzle, and it was not a fan favorite.  Not a single person in our group enjoyed the meal. Flavors were flat, dishes lacked cohesion, and the overall experience felt confused and uninspired. Virgin Voyages’ decision to change the dinner concept and menu for Razzle Dazzle has significantly diminished what was once a reliable and enjoyable venue. The current iteration of this restaurant stood out as one of the most disappointing dining experiences of the voyage.

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We ended the night at On the Rocks, listening to Larger Than Lions, a band from Australia. While polished, the performance once again reinforced the broader shift we were noticing in onboard entertainment both in tone and audience targeting.

Wednesday, August 20 – Bruges: History, Beauty & Hard Truths

Our day in Bruges began with a Virgin Voyages shore excursion combining a guided walking tour and a canal cruise. Often called the Venice of the North, Bruges is stunning—medieval architecture, winding canals, and a remarkably preserved historic center.

Unfortunately, the walking tour fell short. One member of our group had mobility challenges, and despite repeated requests, the guide refused to slow down. Scott and I spoke directly—and firmly—to the guide, as did others, but nothing changed, leaving parts of the group far behind.

The canal cruise provided a calmer, more enjoyable perspective. You can do both tours—but you truly don’t need to.  The Canal cruise was by far the better experience.

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During the allocated free time in the tour, Scott and I visited the Basilica of the Holy Blood, home to a relic believed to contain the blood of Jesus Christ, brought back during the Crusades. It was a powerful and humbling visit.

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And because we were in Belgium, a waffle was mandatory, paired with a Pepsi Max before heading back to the ship.

Dinner at The Wake followed. While overall food quality on Virgin Voyages appears to have declined over the years, the evening was elevated by Bryan, our server—someone we’ve sailed with before and who continues to deliver exceptional service.

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Thursday, August 21 – A Relaxed Sea Day & Familiar Faces

We intentionally made this sea day about slowing down. The morning began with lunch delivered to our room, allowing us to truly relax and work.

Later, we attended Virgin Voyages’ Afternoon Tea, complete with champagne, a hot toddy, and tea. We were joined by Rob, Maria and Hayden and the afternoon turned into a few easy hours of conversation and connection.

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Dinner was at Gunbae, and the changes were shocking. Bibimbap, noodles, multiple appetizers, and even Wagyu beef—once staples—have been removed entirely and cannot be ordered at all.

We ended the evening at On the Rocks, listening to Meg LaGrande, an incredible Irish fiddle player and singer, joined by Lance, Rob, Maria, Hayden, Brandon, and Thomas.

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Friday, August 22 – Kirkwall, Orkney Islands

We started the day with room service breakfast, easing into the morning before heading ashore in Kirkwall for one of the most fascinating excursions of the entire voyage.

Our shore excursion took us to Skara Brae, one of Europe’s most remarkable archaeological sites. Dating back more than 5,000 years, this incredibly well-preserved Neolithic village was uncovered in the 19th century after a powerful storm stripped away layers of sand. What makes Skara Brae so extraordinary is how intact it remains—stone-built homes complete with beds, dressers, hearths, and storage areas, offering a rare and intimate look into daily life long before recorded history. Standing inside these ancient structures, it’s impossible not to feel the weight of time; Skara Brae is older than Stonehenge and even the Great Pyramids of Egypt.

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Nearby, we visited Skaill House, a beautifully preserved 17th-century manor located just steps from Skara Brae. Once the home of local lairds, the house provides a fascinating contrast—showing how life on Orkney evolved over centuries. Walking through its rooms, filled with antiques, artifacts, and maritime history, added another layer of context to the island’s story.

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That evening, we returned to the ship for dinner at Extra Virgin, which proved to be a highlight. Beatrize, our server, delivered warm, attentive service, and standout dishes included the corn tortellini and seafood risotto—a reminder of how good Virgin Voyages’ dining can be when everything comes together.

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Saturday, August 23 – Stornoway, Scotland

Our day in Stornoway began with a Virgin Voyages shore excursion to Carloway Broch, one of Scotland’s best-preserved Iron Age structures. Standing against the rugged landscape of the Isle of Lewis, the broch offered a fascinating glimpse into ancient defensive life. Along the way, we also saw ancient standing stones, reminiscent of Stonehenge but more numerous and spread across the countryside, reinforcing just how deeply layered this region’s history truly is.

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Back onboard, service in The Galley was noticeably lacking. There were no servers on the floor, and after waiting more than ten minutes, we had to actively track someone down just to place an order—another example of declining service consistency.

I then headed to Stubble & Groom to have my hair braided, followed by a mani-pedi, which provided a welcome moment of relaxation and self-care.

Dinner that evening was at Gunbae (server: Dhani). By this point, it was clear that signature elements of the Korean BBQ experience are gone entirely. These items are no longer available at all, even by request. Notably, the restaurant was half empty by 8:00 PM, a stark contrast to how lively and difficult-to-book it once was.

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Sunday, August 24 – Sea Day

We opted for room service breakfast and a slow start. Scott and I attended the 2:00 PM LGBTQ+ meetup, but unfortunately we constituted the entire meet up.

We then made our way to Loose Cannon for Music Trivia, joined by Lance, Rob, and Maria. Of course, our group won, earning shots—Scott chose the selection—followed by pretzels as a pre-dinner snack.

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Dinner that evening was at Pink Agave, reinforcing an ongoing trend—the same menu with noticeably smaller portions.

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Monday, August 25 – Glasgow & Stirling Castle

Scott and I opted for a Virgin Voyages shore excursion because Scott wanted to see castles. After an hour-long bus ride, we arrived at Stirling Castle, dramatically perched atop a volcanic rock.

The castle played a central role in Scottish history and served as home to royalty, including Mary, Queen of Scots. The visit carried special meaning—Scott is Scots-Irish, and his family lineage can be traced back to Sir William Wallace. We spent four hours exploring the castle, making it one of the most meaningful days of the trip.

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Dinner was again at The Wake, where pacing issues persisted. We ended the night with our group at Sip Lounge, enjoying live music, cocktails, and a relaxed atmosphere.

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Tuesday, August 26 – Belfast & the Giant’s Causeway

Scott and I chose another Virgin Voyages shore excursion, taking an hour-long bus ride to the Giant’s Causeway.

According to legend, the hexagonal stones were built by the giant Finn McCool as a pathway to Scotland. Science credits volcanic activity—but standing among the columns, it’s easy to believe the myth.

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Afterward, we stopped at a local pub for chips, a beer, and chocolate cake.

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Back onboard, we grabbed hot dogs and popcorn at the Social Club. Dinner at The Galley again highlighted declining food quality.

That night was Scarlet Night, moved indoors to the Red Room due to weather, changing the energy of the event.  It still was a great event though!

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Wednesday, August 27 – Dublin Chaos

Virgin Voyages required all guests to turn in their passports, advising they would be handled for us and returned the following day. Guests were not allowed to keep them, which immediately caused concern.  

What followed was total chaos—conflicting instructions, uncontrolled lines, and over 90 minutes just to surrender passports in exchange for handwritten slips with cabin numbers. It was easily the most disorganized operational moment of the voyage.

Dinner was again at Pink Agave, and we sent our laundry out before calling it an early night.

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Thursday, August 28 – Dublin Done Right

Meg and I were determined to do Dublin right. Having lived in Dún Laoghaire and worked in Dublin, I knew the challenges that this tender would bring. Plus, we had our own tour guide, the incomparable Meg.  So, we started the day with a private car from the port into the city.

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We began at Trinity College Dublin, founded in 1592, touring the Book of Kells, an illuminated manuscript created around 800 AD and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures.

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Walking toward Grafton Street, the rain besieged us. Meg guided us to a newly opened merchant area akin to a mall or shopping plaza where families have sold goods for over 100 years.

We continued to The Swan Bar, a Victorian-era pub dating to the late 1800s, for a five-whiskey Irish tasting. Meg pulled out her fiddle and played, prompting the owner to give us a private historical tour, including the escape cut-out used during the Irish Revolution.

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Lunch was a hearty Irish feast at Sinnott’s; everyone loved the Irish equivalent to a southern meat and three. Later, Meg joined friends busking on Grafton Street, drawing a cheering crowd as we all got to enjoy their collective talents.

A pint at Temple Bar followed before our private transfer returned us to the ship.

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Dinner was a group table at Gunbae with Rob & Maria, Brandon & Thomas, Scott, Meg, and me, followed by cocktails at On the Rocks.

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Friday, August 29 – A Slower Pace

We slept in, had lunch at The Galley, retrieved our passports, and spent the afternoon packing.

Dinner was again at The Galley, chosen for sirloin, mashed potatoes, and vegetables.

Saturday, August 30 – Homeward Bound… Not Yet

Before we disembarked, we had a hearty breakfast with the gang.  Thereafter, we enjoyed a private transfer to London Gatwick, where we boarded a flight to Istanbul—not heading home, just continuing the journey.  Our Istanbul journey is forthcoming!

Final Takeaway

This journey delivered extraordinary destinations, meaningful connections, and an honest look at how Virgin Voyages has evolved. For seasoned travelers and advisors alike, those insights matter.  That said, everyone rated our journey a 5 out of 5–where little failures occurred, our planning, the extra special itineraries and the extras we implemented by way of shore excursions and private experiences more than compensated for the hick ups.

 

 

About the Author

Sean Hornbeck

With over 20 years working in travel and tourism in various capacities, Sean travels the globe constantly looking for unique once in a lifetime experiences and experiences that remind us of the joy of life.

Join Sean in his travels as he shares insightful tales and connects with diverse communities worldwide.

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